When the Musée Soieries Brochier opened its doors in 2022, one thing quickly became clear. Among the many creations that have shaped the history of the house since 1890, its gold and silver fabrics held a special place. They had captivated some of the greatest couturiers, graced some of the most remarkable silhouettes of the 20th century, and continue to inspire designers today.
Tracking down the dresses made from Brochier Soieries fabrics would prove to be a true investigation.
Evening dress for Madame de Bligny by Paul Poiret, pleated silver lamé and silk
Once woven, the fabrics were sent to couture houses in Paris and Milan, as well as in the United States and Australia. After being transformed into garments in some of the finest ateliers, they appeared on the runway before finding their way into private collections and museums, sometimes on the other side of the world.
Each new identification feels almost miraculous and brings a genuine sense of emotion: the thrill of seeing a creation reappear whose story had been lost to us. Little by little, the discoveries multiplied, and one conviction emerged: these fabrics woven from silk, gold and silver deserved an exhibition of their own.
As the exhibition project took shape, the story itself continued to unfold.
While our research was uncovering new dresses made from Brochier Soieries fabrics, the house was simultaneously developing new projects using gold and silver threads. A collaboration with artist Thomas Henriot gave rise to a series of monumental works woven with gold, while new textile research was undertaken for Rick Owens. Meanwhile, Brochier Technologies continued to develop innovative textiles incorporating metallic threads.
The exhibition then took on its full meaning: it was no longer simply telling a story, but revealing a creative process that is still very much alive.
Brochier Soieries, 130 Years of Silk, Gold and Silver invites visitors to see things from a different perspective.
Where the eye might first be drawn to the silhouette, a silk maker’s gaze turns first and foremost to the fabric. Behind every dress lie months of research, experimentation and dialogue between textile designers, weavers, metallic-thread manufacturers, finishers and couturiers.
Because a fabric is not only meant to be looked at, the exhibition also offers a tactile experience. Visitors are invited to touch some of the materials and discover their suppleness, texture and lustre – another way of understanding what makes a silk house unique.
From the gold lamés created for Paul Poiret and Yves Saint Laurent to the most contemporary textiles, the exhibition reveals how the same fascination with material has continued, for more than 130 years, to fuel the imagination of artists, couturiers and the teams at Brochier Soieries.
Julie Dodet, Exhibition Curator
BROCHIER SOIERIES, 130 YEARS OF SILK, GOLD AND SILVER
Exhibition from October 1, 2026
Musée Soieries Brochier
18 quai Jules Courmont, 69002 Lyon
